豪華餅店 (九龍城)

There is only so much you can say about one certain thing, or so I thought.

Hoover Cake Shop, translated in Chinese to become "Luxury". The cheaper alternative of foreign pastries will get you to this long-queue corner shop. The store space is tightly packed, where the sales ladies work with roomful of metal trays arranged neatly on shelves. Each shelf holds an array of fresh out of the oven cupcakes, tarts, and breads -- plain or wheat or with raisins. HOOVER is a staple, and inside the beating heart of Kowloon City, nobody will doubt the legendary status and how Hoover got it.

For $10 you can get three 'coconut tarts' -- you can see the red jewel-like maraschino cherry on top --no one I know ever eats that fruit, so dyed in red, as it is ever so cloyingly sweet that it makes the coconut tastes like something out from the paper shredder. Not this one. Pale golden and lumping in half-dome of a mound is the coconut filling, lightly sweet and dense at the same time. The pastry shell is toasty but buttery as well.

The legendary custard tart ($3.50 each) tastes consistently over the years. I've had one before a meal on one day, in between meals on another, and as a "dessert/ stomach filler" on another occasion. The tart shell is neither the shortbread crust nor is it flaky either. It's a cross between the two and frankly, I enjoy it a lot, with its richness in butter and a delightful crunch upon each bite, revealing a sweet wobbly custard filling the glow of shimmering gold. It's quite a sight to see a tray of new custard tarts come out of the oven and rest on the shelf -- each puffed up filling soon sink slightly in its shell, The custard filling is eggy and velvety smooth, at the same time it's denser than many custard tarts out there as well. I have had these tarts several times, and each time they don't disappoint, whether I got them just out of the oven, or been standing around for an hour or two. I always have it without the bag, as the cupping of a naked hand nests a perfectly round custard tart with ridged sides, nibbling on feeling the contrast of crisp shell and soft filling, feeling every bit of it, never wasting a crumb, be in on the paper, the hand, or even visible on the chin.

Each time at Hoover reminds me how important it is to maintain high consistency, and it's not just in business we're talking about. By constantly delivering scrumptious custard tarts, Hoover has never stopped impressing locals, whether you like custard tarts in the first place or not. Old-style bakeries like Hoover don't need the glamorous makeover in the shop, or rare ingredients and artful designs. Its modest simplicity can be, and is already a form of luxury on its own.

甘香齋 (北角)

Wants and Needs don't necessarily go hand in hand. You want to eat out, but you may not need to do so; You need to exercise to lose the extra weight but you may not want to. It may be relative whether the two should align anytime during one's life, depending on the circumstances, often times, it is one who makes the call, weighing which trumps the other. Recently for me it's the vivid memory of the whole pork knuckle (comes with sauerkraut and beer) during a trip out west. It's not easy to tackle a whole pork knuckle but after an entire morning of hiking with the sun blazing above, it's not all that hard to down it. (I enjoyed it a lot, in fact). The aftermath certainly involves shunning away from every bits of swine limbs every time I get, oh, and I want vegetables.

This day I just happened to stop by this little joint. The name was familiar, and when I knew I wanted mid-morning breakfast, the name of 紅米粢飯 won me over. 甘香齋 has opened for 20 some years in a different location, it's only recently that they have relocated into this new location at Shell Street, neighboring Tea and Herb just down a few stores. They offer convenient lunches with 8 different varieties of vegetables, soy products, and beans to choose from each day, feel free to mix and match with a giant bowl of soup and a choice of white/ red+ white rice to go with each meal. At $25 (for 2 choices) it's quite a steal in the neighborhood.

I ordered up that 紅米粢飯 and have chilled soy milk to go with. ($13 for breakfast, $14 after 11am). I was greeted by a smiley woman who handed me my order. The soy milk was chilled, but not ice-cold. It tasted lightly sweet. The 紅米粢飯 arrived next -- tightly bound in plastic wrap like any other ones. I looked closely from the outside -- granules of white glutinous rice turned slightly purple -- the colour of lilac, with black glutinous rice bejeweling within. The filling was fried dough, pickled mustard tuber and wait...pork floss? I looked again, it really was pork floss. Turned out, it was one of those vegetarian pork floss -- made with the stem part of mushrooms (unlikely ingredient, but think about a fresh mushroom's stem. When you bite into it, it becomes tiny strands!) I unwrapped the parcel and bit into it -- the textures and flavours were exactly the same with the meat-version, so real I seemed to have forgotten the whole not-eating-meat factor. It wasn't an issue at all when I was eating it, bite by bite. The nice crunch on the mustard tuber paired nicely with the gooey fried dough and the glutinous rice exterior, which also offered a slightly sweeter aftertaste than just ordinary white glutinous rice.

While enjoying this, I was offered some culinary tips by the smiley lady -- turned out, glutinous rice, the black one has to be presoaked and cannot be cooked in a rice cooker (I did not know that). To yield fluffy glutinous rice the granules must be soaked before hand and then STEAMED (she didn't show me how, but I figured it's like cooking basmati rice) That, I didn't know in the first place. The lady was friendly all through our conversation and that made my visit a good one with simple food but good conversations, also made me realize that restaurant experiences often don't lead up to the personal conversation of likes, dislikes, and preferences, and smiles are often in very short supply as well. (sincere ones are scarce among the smiles you get). The service, was enthusiastic and it showed me that these people who have run this little shop for the past 20 some years, have done something right, that they have wanted to do it right and felt to align the needs for their clientele and their own to do things the right way -- not to waste, and to encourage themselves to serve on a mission to promote vegetarian meals for the omnivorous clientele. That, is the kind of charity mission I think that will benefit me not just on the front of health, but others as well.

Note: 甘香齋 closes at 3 pm on Sundays and Public holidays. Other days they close at 8 pm.

魚珈旨 (中環)

Set Lunches in Central -- prices ranging from $80 to $150 is the norm, I think. Those who has spent their lunch hours begging for a seat at a reputable joint (big and small) will know that neither do you have enough time for the 3 course lunch, nor will you enjoy it even if you do. And that, is another reason to celebrate the fact that a public holiday has landed on yet another weekday. You see, some restaurants don't run a holiday schedule. They run their weekly brunches with free flowing bubbly on the weekends and during the week, work or holidays, they run set lunches. Those who have not been able to availed themselves for these opportunities will have the chance to do so, to splurge on the expense of time, to try these places.

Sushi Uogashi, a joint with a familiar name, which opened previously in TST and Causeway Bay (closed), has re-opened in the new building opposite of Luk Yu Teahouse. At exactly 1 pm we arrived to find that the place was nearly empty. This would never have happened should it be a weekday. The place occupied a square space brightly lit with a sushi bar looking over to the kitchen action while wooden furnishing filled the room, which is modestly decorated with Japanese art accents of paper cranes, theatre masks and ceremonial elements. Set lunches prix fixe ranges from $85 to $150 per person. Each comes respectively in a set with miso soup and steamed custard. The $150 set lunch featured "3 mini bowls of rice", which each person can 3 choices among a list of toppings. You can choose one of each from sea urchin, salmon roe, tuna, to grilled eel. various types of tempura.

For our lunches we chose the "Rice with Mixed Sashimi" (雜錦魚生飯, $130) and the Rice with Mixed Tempura (雜錦天婦羅飯, $95). The sashimi rice also has a small bowl of udon in hot broth, while the tempura set comes in the same thing, except replaced by buckwheat noodles.

Rice with Mixed Sashimi arrived in an enormous bowl set on a lacquered tray. Next to it an array of neatly set bowls including the udon in steaming hot soup, the steamed custard (lid-on, with wooden spoon) and a miso soup, also steaming hot. The rice, as shown in the picture, really was surprisingly "mixed". It didn't look very arranged and correct me if I'm wrong, but I had a different picture in mind. I thought it was going to be everything neatly tucked together "mixed" by type, not by looks. But that, could be forgiven should the quality surpasses the looks. I comforted myself that all the time especially when fried intestines or cod sperm was concerned, but never quite like this.

The rice was vinegared, but not typical sushi rice vinegar as I normally would have. A little more tangy perhaps. The fish, cut into small bits, really was mixed in variety as well. There they were -- tuna, salmon, whitefish, and a few others I couldn't name but have had plenty of during trips to sushi joints. A beautiful shrimp with a tilting head topped the fish pile as gems of salmon roe bejeweled its surroundings. The fish bits were slightly mellow, and if I may add, not exactly the perfect type of mixed sushi rice I would imagine myself having either. The fish, cut into bits so small, was actually difficult to pick up with chopsticks to eat WITH the rice. I was at a loss of words when suddenly an epiphanic moment hit me. SCRAPINGS, that's the word I was after. The fish looked like scrapings here and there, and everywhere. I hope I wasn't right about this, but I so would preferred to have 3 different mini bowls of rice with one fish at a time. I imagined for the extra $20 it would look and taste significantly different?!

The udon in hot broth was satisfactory. The udon was a little on the softer side (though you can't really compare that to the ones served cold at Ootoya). The chewy factor gone, but the broth was briny enough to take on the flavours of kombu and bonito as I slurped up yet another of those slippery noodle. That, fulfilled the expectation I had for the meal so far.

Rice with Mixed Tempura was impressive in terms of presentation. Seeing past the same accompanying elements of steamed custard and miso soup. The small bowl of buckwheat noodles in briny broth was delicate. The broth was steaming as well but clearly tasting quite different from the udon broth. The buckwheat noodles had a slight bite to it as ringlets of scallions accompanied it well.

The rice itself was delicious (I almost never use this word in writing...it's so vague) Slightly sticky and easily picked up in small lumps, the rice was well seasoned with the tempura soy sauce which tasted briny and sweet at the same time. The shrimp tempura (2 pcs) presented crisscrossed across the top was a classic look for the dish, and the coating was thin and crispy, not to mention tasting fresh throughout. In terms of vegetables, the eggplant was on an angular cut with knifework on it that resembled a comb when fried. It was moist and delicate, while the thin wedge of kabocha tempura was honey sweet and starchy in texture.

Little bits of crunchy fried bits top the rice, offering extra crunchiness to the otherwise soft lumpy rice. I found this deeply satisfying and frankly, it's the kind of finishing touches that got my by surprise. The miso soup was just as ordinary as it normally would taste like in a quick casual lunch, the steamed custard was another way to impress (or dread, in many occasions). When uncovered, a whiff of mushroom aroma arose as silky smooth custard slightly jiggled a softly-set jelly in front of me. The colour was -- perfectly as it is, a custard. I dipped an exploratory spoon to touch the surface, and digging in slowly as the custard dented, and gave in to the slightest pressure of the wooden spoon, a wonderful egginess surfaced and met my eye and nose. I let the custard melt slowly in my mouth, as a complex combination of shiitake mushrooms, egg, and chicken harmoniously erupted and fused together. As the custard slid down the throat, my hand was already on the next scoop. It was one of the good steamed custards I've had, and I must say, this was perhaps the jewel of the crown for this meal.

The complimentary coffee of the meal was not a made-to-order coffee. It was steamy hot when served, with a slightly woody and smoky flavour less pronounced than hickory. It's a shame that the restaurant decided to offer "Coffee Mate" instead of real cream, that, was a disappointing no-no for me.

Service was of course prompt, at a restaurant that probably could sit no more than 35, and at a time when there were only one other table was having a meal. Mike Pung, the manager here, was pleasant and friendly to chat over the course of our meal. When the idea of a food blog/ writeup came up, he looked taken aback, but resumed with a killer smile and a whole feed about the restaurant, its stories, and some other specialties.

Lunching here may seem difficult if you're not a fast runner to stake your claim for a table, but there are possibilities and hope for the return to try that tempting 3 mini bowls next time.

金記冰室 (筲箕灣)

What gives you the motivation to get up early on the weekend, when you have no workout/ training schedule to follow, or anything planned at all? Those who get up early enough to get their "1st worms" during the week may prefer sleeping in, indulge in a decadent brunch at mid-day (sipping champagne). Then there are those on the look out for things we don't have the pleasure to have during the week -- the leisure to sit down at have breakfast. We grab a toast in a hurry, pack our cereal, or drink our coffee while we wait for the elevator on our way to our destinations.

I've heard much about 金記. The food may not be the most outstanding among establishments like these, but the funny that the earlier you get to the joint, the better service you get, and the better quality you get. There I was, wanderingpast TAI ON Estate, passing by irresistible temptations at 百利 and 牡丹咖啡, I arrived at the side street where 金記 is located.

Tiled floors with light green painted walls, the use of conventional fluorescent lighting makes the space dimmer than it normally would. The wooden booths were not of the roomy kind, in fact it'd be rather embarassing sitting with strangers when your knees grow deep against theirs, the strange intimacy between strangers would work best in situations other than this one. The breakfast is a good eeal. For $24 you'll get a ham omelette, a hot beverage (recommending the milk tea), and a macaroni in broth with beef, served in one of those plastic soup dish that matches coincidentally with the walls.

It didn't surprise me that it's the hot milk tea that arrived first. In the most conventional sense, the tea was in one of those thick porcelain cups -- white with a deep red line just below the lip, and the handle a tingy round just small enough to fit in an index finger wrapping around it. Tea was hot, but the familiar aroma of the tea's complex blend greeted me in open arms, as if to reward my getting up early on the weekend. The initial sip was potent, when combined with high temperature, makes it even more difficult to swallow, but as the tea cooled inside the mouth, travelling through the palates the flavour of the tea and milk harmoniously paired up and permeated into each tastebuds. Its smoothly slid down the throat without inducting that typical stimulating sharpness you'd otherwise expected from a tea THIS HOT.

The ham omelette arrived sliding across the table. It looked the part -- a puffed half moon crescent with the familiar egginess. Strips of ham as filling, the omelette was quite large. What appealed to me the most was its edges, brown and crisp, yielded from the searing over a heated pan, and despite plenty of oil went in the making of this omelette, the lightly runny interior will make you forget all about it.

Macaroni with beef rounded up the bearkfast. Satisfying on its own, it really didn't need much introduction and descriptions to it. The macaroni was the smooth kind. (no ridges on the side). Beef strips were not tossed in satay sauce either, but added just enough of meatiness in a typical breakfast, nothing to complain about, really.

Time was early on the weekend, I visited 金記, customers have not packed the place yet. Staff were more friendly, engaging in conversations tha extended beyond "hello" and "thank you" and "goodbye". When they threw in, "Not many folks wake up this early on a weekend!" I replied as I felt -- that maybe I should come by earlier to try it out. The lady who served me my breakfast nodded to agree. I caught a glimpse of approval as she turned around, and perhaps appreciation from that. She went on joking about the milk tea being bigger, or special requests will be taken care of with more consideration. I realized, that what folks who have had bad experiences with disgruntled service here could have come with better timing. i.e. a time when the mood is good. It all comes down to getting used to being the early bird, not just "early in terms of timing", catching the right one may just get you the first (usually best) worms of the day!

UnoMas - Spanish Restaurant (灣仔)

"Tapas?", a voice edged with uncertainty on the other end of the receiver, followed by "You want tapas on your birthday?" I had El Pomposo in mind, but later a dear friend reminded me an opening of a Spanish Tapas Bar in Wan Chai. For days I agonized over possible embarassment during drunken afternoons from Sangria. There were fond memories of the good times, but the bad ones with spilled secrets often override the vivid memories.

TAPEO has set such high standards for me that when it comes to tapas, I hesitated trying UNOMAS, a place literally means "ONE MORE". The luminated sign leading up to dark steps upwwards. At the end of these stairs was a large space, dimly lit with dark lacquered stools against the open bar. The open kitchen offered you all the actions from the chefs preparing your paella, tossing the salads, shaving jamon etc. The large dining room led up to a terrace overlooking fluorescent lit Lockhard Road.

Back inside, the menu looked promising enough -- a stack of papers on a mini clipboard with boxes to check for orders. For the three of us, lighting eating meant four to five tapas, leaving the well anticipated paella out intentionally (for next visit) . The three of us placed orders, and while listening light guitar tunes, we chatted about birthday wishes, and toasted on good health, good life, and goodness in everything else, as the first of our orders descended upon us.

CALAMARE RELLENO (Stuffed Calamari with lentils served with saffron aioli, $72) was an extended rectangular plate with a whole squid, stuffed tightly with sauteed green lentils which bears the aroma of smoked ham and onions. The rings of calamari were tender, pairing well with starchy lentils (not mushy though). The saffron aioli was a fluffy light golden pile, so light you wouldn't expect to feel this consistency from an emulsion, think Mayonnaise. The golden hue from saffrom added both a sense of glitzy glamour and floral aroma to an otherwise common sauce for calamari.


CHORIZO FRITO (Chorizo with red wine reduction, $58) was served in a shallow metal pan. This dish was simplicity as i is. Angular cut of a mildly hot sausage flash-fried in a pan with olive oil, sizzling away. In went the red wine and reduced to a thicker and richer sauce. Just as I thought how ell it would go with bread, there they were, sticks of grilled bread contained in a basket were served up. Each strip of bread, soaking up velvety sauce the colour of brick-red.

Next in line was CROQUETAS DE ARROZ Y MANCHEGO (Deep fried rice fritters with Manchego, $48). These realy are the golden globes the size of golf balls. Eah fritter was coated with chopped blanched almonds before frying, creating the ever so nutty alternative to a conventional breaded coating. Each grain of rice was soft awith an al dente-like core, tightly packed enrobing molten manchego cheese as it oozes out from the centre. The burst of richness was uncalled for, but warm and welcoming indeed!!


ALMEJAS AL JEREZ (Sauteed clams with ham and sherry, $68) arrived in the truest sense of a peek-a-boo surprise. Served lid-on, I uncover the dish to reveal the aroma most resembling the sensation as if I were standing at the sandy sea shore of Spain, with wet sand squishing between the toes and sea breeze gently brushing by me. The welcoming whiff of the sea greeted me with such intensity that I completely went speechless for a few seconds, before the briny aroma was replaced by the fragrant sherry wine. The clams may be the focus here, but it was the cannellini beans the stole the show. They soaked up all the flavours from the ham, sherry and clams and slow cooked until desired doneness but never to a mush.

The onslaught of tapas charm was fantastic, but deciding to skip the paella and desserts, we just had to have one last tapas. The MANZANA RELLENA (Stuffed Apples, $68).The apple arrived whole, with filling of raisins and minced pork. Served in a shallow pan, the apple was cored as wel. The sauce was somewhat a savory rough applesauce. The apple was soft but retained shape on its own. Unlike a dessert, the sweetness level of the apple was balanced out by the tartness of it, while the meaty pork was accompanied by caramel sweetness of plump raisins and pine nuts used in the filling. Sweet, savory, nutty, meaty, all harmoniously blended in coherence as our tapas adventure comes to an end.

There may not have been staples like Jamon or Paella, or the bubbly Cava in our Tapas adventure at UnoMas, but the array of tapas drew the curtains for more celebrations of wonderful meals ahead. UnoMas has generated considerable buzz and a reputation of authenticity in Barcelona style Tapas, as the dishes arrived piping hot and the staff were knowledgable in the cuisine they served, allowing people like myself yearning to have the experience re-lived. Perhaps just once more, as suggested appropriately in the establishment's name?