There are "great expectations" when one goes to a restaurant that does not allow for reservations. This restaurant has been much discussed in the newspapers, food magazines, and has been reviewed by many eager critiques. I thought it was high time that I ventured down to Ship Street to try for myself what everyone has been raving about. So, seeing that it was Christmas day, I thought that this would be the perfect time to head here and hopefully have a great holiday meal.
I arrived at the restaurant and my details were noted by the manager. We waited until the restaurant opened and were then seated promptly at the bar. Our waiter came and introduced herself, and we then proceeded to peruse the menu.
santa's little helper sangria
santa's little helper sangria
The name of the drink intrigued me, however for a drink so nominally sparkling, the resulting product (personally) pulled up short of expectation. From first glance, a blend of dark swirling colours contrasted by the soft beige of the whipped cream provided a certain festival for the eyes.I watched intently as the bartender prepared three glasses with copious amounts of ice. Then, from under the counter, the bartender pulled out what was obviously a pre-made liquid, looking little more than a mixture of red wine and grape juice, filled each glass up to half, added a small amount of lemonade from a soft drink can, and gave it a mix. I was slightly disappointed. However, all was not lost. Application of the whipped cream gave this ordinary-looking cocktail some depth, allowing for some limited integration of both substances. Then, some raspberry sugar dust and a rather cosmic toothpick with cherries liberally placed on top...I was sold on preparation and presentation and ready for my tongue to make a secondary judgment.
First contact, and my immediate thought was ‘average’. Whilst the image and the presentation of the drink created a certain euphoria, my taste buds could not find the same spark. One flavour worth mentioning would have been the cherries. Fruit soaked in red wine and so explosively accentuated by the alcohol should never go amiss in such a cocktail.
seared tuna, miso aubergine, sherry dressing
seared tuna, miso aubergine, sherry dressing
Having satisfied my parched throat, I was eager to appease my rumbling stomach. As if by divine intervention, the seared tuna arrived. My eyes were immediately drawn to the array of vivid colours and the beautiful assembly of ingredients. Deconstructing the dish, the most notable part would definitely be the aubergines, which were succulent, fresh and dressed with the sherry sauce; a mouthwatering experience. The fish was seared to perfection with a visual fade from cooked to rare with the middle full of flavour. Hidden beneath the canopy of fish was a delightful little surprise; a mushroom pate that was smooth, warm, and rivaled those of the finest restaurants in France. Simple, elegant, refined, and fresh, this is a must have dish for seafood lovers everywhere.
truffled egg and celeriac
truffled egg and celeriac
A combination both eerie and mysterious when I first lay my eyes upon those words. Surely an ingredient so lavish as truffle would not be wasted on something so simple and undeserving as an egg? Unlike most rhetorical questions, 22 Ships had a definitive answer for me: ‘Oh ye of little faith’. What appeared in front of me was a golden-white orb, resting delicately on a bed of what seemed to be shredded potato and mustard seeds lathered with a film of mayonnaise. As I cut into the egg, a rich, yellow-orange, creamy yolk flowed down the crispy exterior to mix with the blend that lay below. A perfectly poached egg, with whites firm and solid, while golden centre runny and delightfully viscous. What I tasted in this dish could not compare to anything that my mind could have expected or dreamed of. With the robust egg yolk, the tangy truffle pate and the rustic mustard potato blend, this dish will surprise you, and leave you wanting more.
heirloom tomato, red onion, sherry vinegar
heirloom tomato, red onion, sherry vinegar
As the tomato salad was placed before me, I was captivated by the variety in colour and size of the vegetable/fruit (whichever you prefer). Traditionally, heirloom tomatoes are known for their fuller taste and revered for their non-conformist appearance in comparison to their traditional perfect red counterparts. Each bite was juicy, fresh and complemented well by the sherry vinaigrette. The mashed red onion paste slathered all over the plate provided a surprisingly piquant addition. However, other than this, the salad was average at best and according to one of my fellow diners “exceedingly overpriced.” That being said, the black,red and brown combination on the plate was visually appealing and aided the presentation of such simple ingredients.
scallop ceviche, yusu dressing, soy, cucumber and apple
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scallop ceviche, yusu dressing, soy, cucumber and apple
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Another creatively plated seafood dish, however this time lacking in any real seafood flavour. The scallops were not of a generous size and upon consuming them, you only realized it was a scallop from the familiar texture that people from Hong Kong are so attuned to from their over consumption of sushi. That being said, the small details supporting the lead rose up, and upstaged the seafood, saving this culinary production. The most memorable performance was the consomme applied to the scallops that was abundant with sesame flavour. It added another unique taste to the otherwise bland scallop along with the aid of the garnish. The thinly sliced horseradish added a much needed pop of colour which was paired nicely with the fine strips of fresh cucumber. All these additions went very well with the scallop, and though the entire dish was visually refined and sophisticated, the scallops did not steal the night.
Garlic Fries
The combination of garlic and fries is so obvious and perfect, yet its simplistic fusion has been overlooked by many. Thankfully, 22 Ships chooses to defy the masses, and chose “the path less followed.” As this delicious bowl left the kitchen, a wonderful aroma of tantalizing garlic started wafting through the air. The fries were hot and I appreciated how they were soft and not cooked to the fast food industry standard. The portion was by far the largest of all the other dishes that I ordered. It came with a delightful chorizo salsa that melded together beautifully with the strong olfaction of the garlic. On a “cold” winters day, this dish and its condiments give a perfect amount of kick needed to keep one toasty and warm.
Sourdough
Little can be said about a bread side-dish so common in current cosmopolitan culinary culture. Having that thought in mind, 22 Ships did not disappoint in providing a palate-cleansing combination of lightly floured bread, revealing the skill behind creating a crispy crust and a soft, spongy centre, perfect for soaking up the olive oil provided to complement the slight sour taste that the bread is so aptly named after.
sucking pig, roasted apple with spices, piquillo pepper jus
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sucking pig, roasted apple with spices, piquillo pepper jus
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As a much advertised dish, I was a little disappointed by the overall taste and visual appeal. The supposed crackling skin did not give its characteristic snap and was rather pale in colour. Some portions of the meat were underseasoned, dry and only saved by the sauce. The piquillo peppers were over cooked, lumpy and sparse. The applesauce was placed sparingly on the side and there was not enough for everyone to enjoy. Sadly, the best part of this dish was the pineapple (a fruit); that is rather disappointing for a signature “meat” dish of this up and coming restaurant.
char grilled Iberico pork
char grilled Iberico pork
Mini burgers have always been popular, especially with the world’s (and more importantly Hong Kong’s) obsession with having a slim figure. Each burger was packed, stacked and looked irresistibly cute. The Iberico pork was charred beautifully and an abundant portion was stuffed into the burger. An extremely thin layer of foie gras was spread on the bun, but you could still distinctively taste it amongst all the other flavours. The beef patty was juicy and full of flavour. The dish was paired with some fresh cucumbers and a lovely little green avocado dip. The acidity of the pickle also added a slight punch to the otherwise only meat burger. One tiny complaint was that the bun was a little buttery, but only a small hiccup in the well-rounded (pun intended) formation of this popular dish.
baked smoked bone marrow, onion jam and sourdough, gentleman'as relish butter
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baked smoked bone marrow, onion jam and sourdough, gentleman'as relish butter
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As a well-established carnivore, there was little I could do but devour the dish presented before me. With seasoned marrow presented on an appropriately designed half-cylinder of bone, complemented with small slices of sourdough, onion jam and a tangy relish butter, my taste buds jumped with delight at the symphony of flavour that entered my mouth. The gamey texture and meaty taste of the marrow was contrasted by the tang and the piquant flavour of the onion jam and relish butter. Given the rustic presentation and the intense combination of texture that assaulted my senses, this dish is definitely one I would recommend for meat lovers anywhere.
All in all, a great little new establishment in Wan Chai. For all you foodies out there, this restaurant definitely has some dishes that are worth visit.
題外話/補充資料
Sparkling water costs HK$50, so you should ask for tap water if you do not want the extra expense. In addition, this restaurant has a no reservation policy. In order to avoid being disappointed, it is suggested you arrived promptly at 6:00pm if not earlier.