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2009-05-11
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(Continued from previous review) The meal (appetizers and mains) has been amazing throughout. Sitting in the comofrtable dining space enjoying morsels of Italian wonders could make you forget that you're actually just lunching in the middle of the business district. As the staff collected our plates and cutlery for our previous courses, and replace them with new ones for desserts, I must admit of my high hopes for them. We approached the buffet table beaming with joy, anticipated to be greeted b
The meal (appetizers and mains) has been amazing throughout. Sitting in the comofrtable dining space enjoying morsels of Italian wonders could make you forget that you're actually just lunching in the middle of the business district. As the staff collected our plates and cutlery for our previous courses, and replace them with new ones for desserts, I must admit of my high hopes for them. We approached the buffet table beaming with joy, anticipated to be greeted by endless desserts. Instead, an impeccably dressed man greeted us instead. Meet Tony Paese, manager of Gusto. I could see behind him were an entire table full of pastries and cakes, and in one brief 'scan' of the entire selection, I know this is not the type of "dessert buffets" we usually get, and Mr. Paese proves to us as he walked us along, introducing them one by one.
You're highly UNLIKELY to see lots of fruit mousses, jelly terrines, a chocolate fountain, or artistic creations of spun sugar clowns with marzipan-made clothes on them, because that's not what Gusto is about. Instead, the dessert bar is filled with honest creations most resembled to rustic tarts and tortas that you'll see often in culinary volumes, and also often overlooked for their simplicity.
Raffaele Grasso, pastry chef at Gusto, has been a devoted fan of coconuts, and he's going to spread his passion into his craft by making fruit coulis for a fabulous yogurt served at the top of the table. The coulis, including a crimson raspberry, saffron-golden mango, and a fanastically exotic coconut coulis -- are just about perfect and light to start the ferocious onslaught of sweets.Notice that Pasticceria Garden, the company that opened Gusto, has been a proud institution that makes pastries in Italy serving hundreds of cafes in the country. Chef Grasso intends to shower us with more pastries, with complete disregard of an already full belly. SAVARINS, the syrup-soaked cake, is topped with a pipette of custard and fresh fruit to resemble a tiny fruit basket. (They also come in full size, and miniature)
"Apple Pie" (not pictured here) is rich and buttery on the crust but perfectly gooey with cubed apples in a potently cinnamon-y filling. The spice may be a strong punch, but you are unlikely to turn your noses away because the apples are sweet and of a nice texture instead of a gooey mess. Zuppa Inglese is also unlike what I have pictured in my mind either. It looks very soupy as the name suggests (shouldn't be). TIRAMISU is very creamy but not strong on the Mascarpone. The little chocolate bits offered a nice crunch to the dessert.
Ricotta Tart has a feathery light cheese filling settled on a dense crust, which was crispy and the light cheese filling is just right with a citrus tone to it. Crostata di Riso (Rice Tart) is like having risotto/ rice pudding as a filling, except sweeter and creamier. The tart though, is rather an acquired taste as rice pudding is not as well appreciated as a dessert on its own, but in a tart you get to try a little bit of it. The filling is slightly grainy but custardy rich at the same time. Banana Cake (pictured skewered) is delicate but very moist throughout. Not very sweet but packed with banana in every bite!
What you also can't miss are the mini croissants. Instead of buttery flakiness you get in regular French croissants, Italian ones are basically made with brioche dough, which will not yield as many layers but just as buttery and rich with the lightness of orange zest blended within. The chocolate mini croissant is petite with chocolate sprinkles on top. The filling is a rich chocolate filling not unlike ganache in chocolate truffles. The custard filled croissants (pictured here) are filled with homemade pastry cream made in the crack of dawn every morning (so are the pastries).
The two specials on Gusto's pastries are the Bomboloncini and the Little Peach. The bomboloncini is a cakey donut type pastry. It's round on the outside, and frankly you wouldn't be able to tell what's special until you bite into it. When you do, you'll taste an eggy custard almost oozing out like lava. The custard is moderately sweet but very creamy to taste. The Little Peach, resembled somewhat like French macarons, but instead the two sides are miniature cakes, sandwiching the same rich custard that filled the Bomboloncini.
You'll be able to see the dainty fruit-tarts, candies, cookies, and several different types of cakes for sale at the front of Gusto. Coffees were "standard protocol" after an Italian meal. Here, small puddles of crema-rich espresso filled the espresso cups, while the Cappuccino serves up in a bigger mug and is above average for me. The food is great and they continue to inspire through authentic and rustic takes on many Italian dishes. The pastries and desserts not only pass the test, but also wins the heart of the diners here (if you can see the faces of those who turn heads for another tiny croissants or another bite of the cakes, you'll know what I'm talking about).
This meal, written in an arc of two reviews, has been a more than a satisfying one -- with the onslaught of desserts and pastries filling my day with the possibilities of coming back to Gusto. It has proven to me the significance to appreciate food, and allow the food to seduce our palates rather than merely filling the belly. That, is how much I value food.
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