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2015-06-17
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We were quite (positively) surprised that we got a table on short notice – the restaurant wasn’t even fully booked on a Sunday night.Coming in, I have to say that I am not a huge fan of the decoration – it’s all very contemporary and restrained, but the big copper tubes hanging from the ceiling (which is the main decorative element) make it a bit claustrophobic.We went for the degustation menu with wine pairing, which comes at 3500 HK per person (2000 for the food and 1500 for the wide). After t
We were quite (positively) surprised that we got a table on short notice – the restaurant wasn’t even fully booked on a Sunday night.
Coming in, I have to say that I am not a huge fan of the decoration – it’s all very contemporary and restrained, but the big copper tubes hanging from the ceiling (which is the main decorative element) make it a bit claustrophobic.
We went for the degustation menu with wine pairing, which comes at 3500 HK per person (2000 for the food and 1500 for the wide). After three little gifts from the kitchen (which where all nice) the first course arrived:
Violin zucchini: thinly sliced zucchini with some more vegetables and (pretty tasteless) summer truffles. A very green, light and fresh start into the evening, but not particularly spectacular. It was paired with a French apple cider, a good match (however a bit of a cheap drink given the price of the wine pairing).
Next was a light cured & smoked aji horse mackerel – beautiful dish with a very light touch of smoke, great texture of the fish. Accompanied by a bit of tomato and coriander purée. It came with a glass of Sancerre, which was spot on.
Up next one their signatures dishes was the hokkaido sea urchin in a lobster jelly and cauliflower puree and caviar. Looking back this was probably the best dish of the evening – the strong iodine taste of the sea urchin worked extremely well with the mild cauliflower; the caviar added another layer of texture to it. It also came with a “crispy seaweed waffle”, which in my view was unnecessary as it didn't add much flavor and I didn't like the texture. The dish was perfectly matched with a glass of sake.
Next Scottish langoustine with crispy chicken skin, green vegetables and apple. Nice piece of seafood, perfectly cooked (although I don't understand why they serve Scottish shrimps in HK), the apple flavor was an unusual combination, which was very pleasant and the vegetables added some nice texture. The crispy chicken skin was paper thin and more of a optical and taste addition. Dish was serves with a (pretty cold) Spanish red wine, which honestly didn't make any sense at all.
After that an interesting French-Japanese combination: steamed duck foie gras with daikon and seaweed broth. I don't think that steaming is the ideal way to prepare foie gras, but the combination of the mild liver with the relatively strong broth worked extremely well, probably my second favorite dish of the evening. Foie gras with sweet wine is always a winning combination, and the sweet Alsace Pinot was no exception.
Next the “main dish”: wagyu beef with some tomato and black garlic caramel. You can’t fail with wagyu – this one was very fatty and fery good. The nice surprise was the black garlic caramel, which added crispiness and an interesting additional flavor component. Came not unexpectedly with Italian red wine.
This would be a French restaurant if there wouldn't be a cheese course, which came next. Relatively small selection of maybe 15 cheeses to choose from, solid quality, but nothing to rave about. However it came with a glass of Brunello di Montalcino, which was my favorite wine of the evening.
First desert was a fennel sorbet with lemon custard and some shaved raw fennel. Sounds a bit strange, but was an absolute winner. The fennel was very mild and herbal and the lemon custard rich and creamy, great combination of flavors and textures. Came with a cremant rosé, which added some interesting strawberry flavor to the mix.
Finally chocolate bowls (“spheres”) with cocoa sorbet. As I am a chocoholic I was looking forward to this one, but unfortunately it was the weakest dish of the evening. Both components where somewhat bland and the two textures didn't work together very well either. At least it came with a nice glass of port.
So overall 8 out of 9 dishes where between very and extremely good; 8 out of 9 wine pairing worked very well. So overall a very pleasant evening and well deserved 2 stars.
Service was spotless as you would expect.
張貼