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我是Emptyplates Gang。我在中環工作。我最常於中環灣仔尖沙咀出沒,最鍾意西餐廳麵包店甜品/糖水漢堡包
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共 52 篇香港及鄰近地區的食評,正顯示第 1 至 5 篇的食評
2014-11-23
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類別 : 美國菜酒吧漢堡包

8/10 plates emptied! [Written by Gobay in Chinese, Carly in English]
從外表看來,這家坐落金鐘和灣仔交界的高級漢堡包餐廳帶著淺黑藍的落地玻璃幕墻,熒紫的招牌,有種吸引著路人走進去一探究竟的神秘感和高尚感。從室內裝潢看,充滿重金屬感的設計也給人的視覺帶來一定的衝擊,把街頭藝術以大幅墻繪的方式展現人前,加上銀亮的椅子,墨黑的沙發,木質的地板和餐桌等等,都讓人有種既壓抑又刺激的期待——也許這就是「尚牛社會」在都市一角張狂地展現出來的魅力。
Needless to say that Beef & Liberty has been one of most attracted burger places in Hong Kong, being featured by numerous food bloggers, foodie magazines and received fairly decent reviews. People compare B&L with Butcher’s Club – the Gang previously wrote a review on this and our personal gourmet favorite goes to Beef & Liberty. The one quality we are looking for at burger diners – CONSISTENCY. The dedication to quality & excellence is utterly crucial for one’s dining experience and for any other customer that is looking to replicate the experience every time when they crave for some good food. Beef & Liberty seems to have aced this so far compared to burger fans that have been visiting Butcher’s club not too far away from B&L.
這又是一間標榜使用澳洲黑安格斯牛肉做漢堡的餐廳,價錢方面就當然不便宜。他們的官網上有詳細的餐單可以給食客訂座前參考,挺全面的,因為包括了兒童套餐和素食漢堡,還有各種酒精飲品,所以這裡是很適合大群人派對和家庭聚會的地方。
我們一共嘗試了6款漢堡包。
Australian Angus beef premium quality was used for their meat patties so that is different from the aged beef technique that Butcher’s club use and supposedly, B&L patties should be juicier, here comes the verdict as we managed to try 6 of their very popular picks and dessert! The upbeat and modern decor with high ceiling and floor-to-ceiling windows give you a spacious and layback ambience for a view near Admiralty and Wanchai, not really appealing for the inner street view but at least being near Star Street does make me feel classier.

 
Bacon Cheese Burger 煙肉芝士漢堡 (單價HKD118, 週一至四套餐價HKD148)
原材料有:新鮮牛肉patty、Ogleshield芝士、Wicks英式煙肉、煙肉醬、酸瓜和自製燒烤醬。Patty稍嫌火候過了,頗乾,Ogleshield芝士是一種英國芝士,它的製法和傳統的瑞士Raclette芝士雷同,易於融化,是做Grilled Cheese三明治的常用材料。溶化後包裹著整個patty,口感柔軟豐盈,但不是一款芝士味很濃烈的芝士。大塊的英式煙肉比一般的要厚上一倍不止,但不會很鹹,煙熏味也淡淡的,口感很結實,煙肉挺特別的,好吃!整體的感覺就是比較乾,儘管我們點的是medium-rare(3-4成熟),芝士味也不夠濃。

 
Bacon Cheeseburger – beef/Olgeshield cheese/Wicks English bacon/bacon jam/pickles/house BBQ sauce (HKD118, Weekday Lunch set HKD148)
Personally loved this one as the extra thick slice of Wicks English bacon made the burger meaty, juicier and slightly sweeter with that bacon jam, complemented with the soft melted Olgeshield cheese. Olgeshield cheese is one type of traditional The patty could be juicer rather than relying on the bacon fat yet it was simply a delightful guilty meal to have for lunch.

 
Lamb Burger 羊肩肉漢堡 (單價HKD$103, 週一至四套餐價HKD$138)
原材料有:威爾斯(Welsh)羊肩肉、薄荷乳酪、酸瓜、小茴香(又稱“孜然”)、生菜和番茄。六款漢堡裡面這款是口感最乾硬的,有點可惜,因為羊肉patty的調味是很惹味的,因為有薄荷和小茴香的經典羊肉搭配在內。
Lamb Burger – welsh lamb/mint yoghurt/cumin/pickles/butter lettuce/tomato (HKD103, Weekday Lunch set HKD138)
Typically for lamb patties, extensive herbs and mint will be used to bring up the tone and seasoning instead of salt & pepper used for beef. Patty was dry out of all 6 burgers even though the seasoning of the mint and herbs was well-marinated as it highlighted the uniqueness of the lamb patty.

 
Black Pepper Burger 黑椒香濃漢堡 (單價HKD113, 週一至四套餐價HKD148)
原材料有:新鮮牛肉patty、新鮮胡椒碎、Ogleshield芝士、火箭菜和洋蔥醬。這個的patty濕潤度稍微好一些,切開後看得到粉紅的肉色。微量的辣味剛好在舌尖上徘徊一會則散去,連最不能吃辣的Lyoe也能吃得津津有味的——補充說明一下,如果辣度是1到10,Lyoe能忍受的辣度最多去到1.5~2。

 
Black Pepper Burger – beef/crushed peppercorns/ogleshield cheese/rocket/onion jam (HKD113, Weekday Lunch set HKD148)
This is exactly what we need at a gourmet burger eatery, when I order black pepper burger, I expect the beef patty to be well-seasoned with fresh black pepper and a slightly less stronger tone of sauce to give a variation apart from other burgers. The best part of B&L is that they add a bit of variation to their burgers menu so for the black pepper burger, they added rocket and onion jam to add that flavor complexity instead of regular lettuce and BBQ sauce which you can always get elsewhere. Lyoe munched away with this burger and enjoyed it so it was pretty decent as well!

 
Green Chili Burger青辣椒漢堡 (單價HKD103, 週一至四套餐價HKD138)
原材料有:新鮮牛肉patty、墨西哥青辣椒醬、完整青辣椒一枚、Ogleshield芝士和蛋黃醬。我們一致認為六個漢堡裡面這一個的patty是烤得最接近medium-rare的。我們用配備的牛扒刀切開,再上手一擠壓,就可以看到肉汁流出來。 原隻的青辣椒也是不辣的,稍微烤過,所以上檯一刻可以清楚聞到強烈的青椒味。配上微辣微酸的蛋黃醬,確實不俗!
Green Chili Burger – beef/green pepper slices/jalapeno relish/Ogleshield cheese/butter lettuce/mayo (HKD103, Weekday Lunch set HKD138)
We were all surprised to see a whole grilled jalapeno served in the burger, it was mild spicy and was the juiciest beef patty out of all the burgers. When Gobay lightly squeezed the burger, juice was flowing from the patty! Even though the grilled green chili was not spicy but it gave rather strong pepper flavor that blended so well with the slightly acidic and hot mayo which made the burger utterly juicy and simply enjoyable.

 

Falafel Vegetarian Burger 法拉費素漢堡 (單價HKD86, 週一至四套餐價HKD128)
原材料有:素食豆泥、芝麻醬、生菜、番茄和哈里薩(Harissa)乳酪。Falafel本身就是一款中東特色小食,是油炸的鷹嘴豆或者蠶豆餅,通常和其他蔬菜還有香料混合成球狀來炸。這款漢堡也是我們的驚喜,炸得很酥脆,入口有很強的小茴香香味,哈里薩酸奶醬是一種黎巴嫩醬料,哈里薩是一種紅辣椒,這個醬甜酸辣而且帶點刺激,相當開胃。
Falafel Vegetarian Burger – falafel/sesame sauce/butter lettuce/tomato/harissa yogurt (HKD86, Weekday Lunch set HKD128)
I have to say that this was absolutely stunning for a veggie burger, B&L’s work is worth praising and the Gang did come back for me just for this outstanding veggie burger. Falafel being one of the most popular Middle East street snacks which is made from deep fried patties of chickpeas and fava beans mushed with herbs like cumin which is a member of the parsley family. The falafel patty was well-seasoned with the right refreshing herbs kick and moisturizing patty to go with the bun and sesame sauce.

 
Classic Burger 經典漢堡 (單價HKD$88, 週一至四套餐價HKD$128)
原材料有:新鮮牛肉patty、生菜、番茄和紅洋蔥。味道不錯,就是patty稍微乾了一點,不夠肉汁。這裡可以額外增加牛肉patty,每份HKD$58,配料則是每種HKD$15。
這裡有款配菜是番薯薯條,喜愛吃薯仔或番薯的朋友可以嘗試一下,很不錯的味道,加上香港餐廳很少用的英國Tiptree品牌的番茄醬,能吃到番茄茸和較濃的新鮮番茄味,而且不會太鹹,所以極力推介這裡的番茄醬。

 
Classic Burger – beef/butter lettuce/tomato/red onion (HKD88, Weekday Lunch set HKD128)
Liked how the burger was just simple, nicely put, beautiful. The construction of the burger was optimally well-put as the bun, beef, veggie was proportionally laid on the plate. Bun was soft and slightly buttered as you can apply compression and delightfully enjoy the whole composition in one bite without the sauce spilling over your fingers rather it is the meat juice that keeps you crave for more.

 
Ketchup with Liberty Fries!
No way can you miss out their England-imported ketchup - Wilkin & Sons Tiptree, this demonstrates a very heartwarming and welcoming twist from the British owners of Beef & Liberty. The balance of natural sweetness of tomatoes and the acidic hint of wine vinegar is profoundly exquisite. Goes so well with their regular cut fries made from Russet potatoes, my fries were all gone by the time I thought about the calories.
Yam fries with Cajun Mayo
Oh my, Cajun! I was thrilled to see cajun majo as one of their specialty dipping sauce to go with "healthier" yam fries. We used to put cajun spice in our poultry, seafood, fries when we lived abroad in Canada yet it is very unlikely for you to see Asian restaurants here to use this heavily flavored spice which is a mixed combination of garlic, bay leaf, bell peppers, oregano, and chili pepper. I always have a liking for sweet-savory food such as salted caramel, sea salt chocolate, so yam fries with the seasoned cajun mayo was just simply irresistible. The only downfall is that the yam fries could be less dry but it is reasonable as sweet potatoes are starchy in texture to begin with so you just need to dip it off in some creamy mayo!

 
Warm Skillet Cookie & Cream (HKD58)
甜品方面我們叫了暖曲奇配奶油 (Warm Skillet Cookie & Cream) 和蘋果批伴法式奶蛋醬(Apple Pie with Crème Anglaise),由於訂位是說明了是幫Lyoe慶生的,所以招呼我們的美女姐姐好貼心地在曲奇上插了一支蠟燭,還請我們吃那兩份曲奇!這是地道的美國美食,軟朱古力曲奇上倒上凍稀的淡奶油,這樣稍微中和了曲奇的甜度(當然還是太甜了),吃起來還是很有趣的,推薦嘗試。
Everyone just indulged themselves with some chunky, chewy chocolate chip cookie served in the heartwarming frying pan (skillet). Benefits of serving the cookie in a warm skillet kept the chocolate chip in a melting form and the cookie crunchy on the edges, this might be too sweet for some people. B&L offers a milky, slightly thin cream that you can pour on the cookie to balance off some of the sweetness and add a bit of moisture complexity to the dessert.

 
Apple Pie with Crème Anglaise
蘋果派就令人大跌眼鏡,這麼傳統美味的美國食品在這裡卻變成了油膩軟塌的代名詞。

Being the dessert of the day, the apple pie was an utter disappointment though as the apple pie with its crumbling presentation, oily, soggy and overly sugary apple filling. Crème Anglaise as a French light pouring custard made with egg yolk, sugar, and milk with a vanilla scent, it did tone down the sweetness but it did not live up to our expectations.
總的來說,這家高級漢堡餐廳還是值得再來的,無論用餐環境和食物新意還是大部分漢堡的味道都是很不錯的。
Undoubtedly, Beef & Liberty is worth acclaiming as the overall dining experience was very enjoyable - food, ambiance, price (more reasonably priced than Butcher's Club), service (offering free desserts for birthday surprises). As I am writing this review, it is time for me to pay our return visit as the Gang is craving for more. Going to try out their appetizers and other homemade sauces like mint yogurt and house BBQ for dipping next time!
Gobay food Knowledge corner:
今日同大家講下有關辣椒。
墨西哥的青辣椒Jalapeño:辣味次於Habañero,紅色或綠色,多數用來做醬料。
墨西哥的橙辣椒Habañero:這是世界上十大最辣的辣椒之一,採摘的時候都要帶上手套,而且接觸后必須洗手。它的體型比較小巧,多數顯鮮艷的橙橘色,香味欠缺,辣味卻非常持久。
亞洲的朝天椒(指天椒):中國泰國非常出名,辣味非常持久而且迅速擴散,但比起上述墨西哥的三款辣椒,它還只是小朋友程度的辣椒。
韓國的青陽紅乾辣椒:辣椒的香味很強烈,而且含有礦物質較多,適合長時間儲存。
北非的紅辣椒醬Harissa: 裡面有各種磨碎了的辣椒,包括墨西哥的青尖椒Serrano。
西班牙紅椒粉Paprika:屬於溫和的辣椒調料,和上述的不同,沒有強烈的辛辣感,多以香料粉的形式出現。

 
推介美食: Wilkin & Sons Ketchup,Falafel Vegetarian Burger,Warm Skillet Cookie & Cream,Green Chilli Burger
是次消費: 每人約$150 (午餐)

評分: 味道 5   環境 4   服務 5   衛生 4   抵食 5

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2014-11-25
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類別 : 法國菜朱古力/糖果店麵包店

8/10 plates emptied!
[Written in English by Carly, and Chinese by Gobay]
As I strolled along Lyndhurst Terrance, in fact quite in a rush for my lunch hour back to work, there I see this little elegant chocolatier near the clusters of bars and pubs, I stopped in front of their glass door and glanced at their lunch menus HKD148 3 course lunch (additional HKD50 for desserts), it seems to be more than attractive for a nice classy French culinary experience on a hectic weekday.
So I dragged the whole Gang with me and booked ahead, anticipating for a decent laidback lunch, the overall experience was more than delightful as we all left with happy tummies filled with heartfelt feeling from the hot chocolate and sweets.

當日四個午市套餐,再將甜品變成熱朱古力拼蛋糕和馬可龍杏仁餅,足夠試完整個套餐菜單上的選項。(HKD$198 + 10%服務費)

 
Panier à Pain (Bread Basket) 麵包籃
It starts with the bread basket with two types of offering – Baguette & Focaccia-like baguette, herbs were added yet the flavor did not stand out and the baguettes were rather too soft on the inside and not crusty on the outside so this was rather disappointing for our bread expert Gobay.
麵包籃相對失色,一種是普通法包Baguette, 另一種是類似Focaccia的Baguette, 有香草和胡蘿蔔粒。但外皮不脆,內裡不軟,基本上「一無是處是包籃」。

 
Velouté de Châtaigne (Chestnut Soup) 栗子濃湯
Carly’s personal favorite Chestnut! I still vividly remembered the profound Chestnut soup I once had at Spoon by Alain Ducasse at InterContinental in for their Autumn dinner menu. Chestnut most commonly used for autumnal dessert, it goes well as a mousse in layered cake, warm heart-throbbing soup, and roasted side dishes with poultry. It is not important for the chestnut to be as creamy as possible like any other pumpkin or pea soup but to have chestnut bits adding that textural complexity to a simple appetizer and Jean-Paul Hevin nailed it.
這個得到熱愛栗子的Carly盛讚,熱碟上檯後,侍應拿著純白的湯壺非常優雅地把湯倒入湯碟內,分量控制得很準確,一壺剛好是兩人份。湯入口順滑,再嘗時栗子茸的那份沙質感沉澱在舌上,甚至在湯勺的表面都能看到它的澱粉質。這正是我們追求的栗子濃湯的感覺,正如吃紅豆沙一樣要那種舌底沙沙地感覺,持久但不過強的栗子和奶油混合成的清香在鼻前縈繞,而且屬於秋季當造的食材,熱熱地喝到肚子里,感覺十分舒爽!

 

Salade du Jour (Salad of the Day) 是日沙律
Smoked salmon, fresh crispy veggie combo and Italian red wine vinegar salad dressing. The salad dressing was evenly spread on all the salad leaves. Smoked salmon was fresh and firm, nicely smoked which gives a hint of lightness to this refreshing salad.
煙三文魚配新鮮時蔬加意大利紅酒醋汁。令人驚艷的是吃完后盤底沒有多餘的汁水,吃得時候油醋汁恰到好處地輕沾在每一片沙律菜葉上,這讓人折服於法國菜的精細上。煙三文魚也很新鮮,肉質緊緻而且煙熏味不會太重。

 
Faux Filet de Bœuf (Roasted Beef Sirloin, with Mushroom Puree, Roasted Potatoes and Red Wine sauce) 西冷牛扒,配蘑菇茸,燴薯粒和紅酒汁
Beef Sirloin was relatively thin cut so it made the slicing and dining experience so much easier. The beef flavor was not too strong yet tender enough given that the portion was attached to slight fat/tendon on the side, so it was a mixture of meat & fat, the optimal fulfillment when you are enjoying a lunch set at SOHO area for only about HKD180 per person.
牛扒不是厚牛扒的形態,反而是較一般的薄,所以切起來很容易。我們點了兩份medium-rare(3-4成熟),其中一塊牛扒邊上有一圈油脂,一刀下去剛好每一塊都可以連著少量的油脂,吃著牛肉和油脂混合的感覺很好,一百多塊在SOHO區,這算是相當不錯的牛扒了。

 
Spaghetti aux Fruits de Mer (Seafood Spaghetti - Shrimp, Mussel, Squid, Fish with white sauce) 海鮮意大利麵
Spaghetti served in a warm plate demonstrates the dedication of higher end of dining experience at Jean-Paul Hevin. Adequate, light white wine sauce was hanging on the al dente spaghetti, the milky flavor blended well with the chunks of seafood.
海鮮雜拼有鮮蝦、青口、魷魚和鱈魚粒。白汁和之前的沙律一樣,分量剛剛好包著每根意粉,不會水汪汪的。而且不會膩,淡淡地奶油香和海鮮味很搭配,所以儘管意粉是包裝意粉而不是新鮮製作的,味道依然怡人。

 

Champignon à Bourré (Grilled Stuffed Jumbo Mushroom – Tomato concassée, parmesan with mixed leaves) 烤釀鮮番茄茸大棕菌,配Parmesan芝士和時蔬
The vegetarian choice for all the healthy eaters. I personally loved their jumbo mushroom as it was still juicy after grilling combined with the well-flavored, rich tomato paste all in one scoop. The portion might not be enough for a gentleman but certainly satisfying for a lady that is under her weight watch yet enjoys a fine dining experience on a weekday.
午市套餐的主菜一共只有三款,其中就有這款是為女士或素食者準備的。釀了番茄茸的棕菌好多汁,口感柔軟飽滿,也不會有一般蘑菇的泥騷味,很好吃。當然在分量上男士是絕對不夠的!

 
Hot Chocolate + Chocolate Gourmand (Espresso size of hot chocolate + slice of chocolate cake) 迷你熱朱古力配朱古力蛋糕

Chocolat Chaud Parisien (Chic Classic hot chocolate made of cocoa from Central America, with spicy tones)
Classic hot chocolate which has the hidden undertone of milk chocolate and with a very subtle spicy tone which is barely noticed compared to other selections. Central America cocoa tends to have a slightly sweeter taste compared to the cocoa from other places.
The one thing that I love about Jean-Paul Hevin’s chocolatier: its subtle delicacy and simplicity and passion dedicated to chocolate. You can tell a lot of things from the service, interior decor, menu, location, and products. There are only two stores in Hong Kong so you can tell that they are not too concerned about their publicity like other well-known chocolatiers like La Maison du Chocolat or Godiva. The discovery of Jean-Paul Hevin chocolatier is like the first encounter with that elegant yet mysterious lady you get a glimpse at parties. She’s sitting at the corner enjoying her rose wine, you slowly approach her with a heartbeat and start talking to her, and you realize how simple and sincere one person can be. You’re glad that you came to the party, forget about the party rocks stars who wants everything from you.
Chocolat Chaud Nosy Be (A pure cocoa from Madagascar with tangy and red fruit tones)
Madagascar pure cocoa had this more down-to-earth chocolate flavor to it as not much cream/milk will be added and it preserves the integrity of the dark chocolate richness, the fruity tone was relatively more outstanding and it did elevate the overall flavor for the hot drink.

 
We ordered two different Chocolate cakes for the dessert combo yet they do not have official names yet as the waitress explained that they were new products yet to be named. First off, the Classic Dark Chocolate Cake is a layered cake of cream, ganache, sponge cake, and chocolate filling which was hard to tell which from which as whole experience was bites of rich cocoa flavor filling one’s sweet tooth cravings without much variation.

 
The other one was a Coffee Chocolate Cake – layered with chocolate ganache and sponge cake alternating, coffee cream mousse and sponge at the bottom. Distinctive layers created flavor and textural complexities which also enhanced the dark and milk chocolate richness and taste. Highly recommend this if you drop by Jean-Paul Hevin!
我們選了Chocolat Chaud Parisien (Chic Classic hot chocolate made of cocoa from Central America, with spicy tones) 經典中美洲熱可可(帶少許刺激香料味)和Chocolat Chaud Nosy Be (A pure cocoa from Madagascar with tangy and red fruit tones) 純馬達加斯加熱可可(帶紅果香味)。至於兩款朱古力蛋糕由於是新產品,店員說暫時還沒有命名。一款味覺上帶來很純正的不同朱古力的混合口感和味道,入口苦澀回味甘甜,除了濃烈的黑朱古力味道以外沒有別的味道。另一款則很有五種不同層次,也相對更甜膩一點,脆皮餅底,而且回味有牛奶朱古力的味道。
Hot Chocolate + Chocolate Duo (Espresso size of hot chocolate + 1 macaroon + 2 pieces of chocolate almonds + 1 chocolate) 迷你熱朱古力配馬可龍和2顆朱古力杏仁、1粒朱古力
Chocolat Chaud Colombie (Pure cocoa from Colombia with roasted coffee tones – contains caffeine)
Coffee tone was rather strong which toned down the cocoa taste and it was relatively bitter compared to other hot chocolates as pure cocoa was used instead of milk or dark chocolate and the slight roasted tone was explicitly put forward as you have one sip.
Chocolat Chaud Anne d’Autriche (Cocoa from Venezuela with spicy and vanilla tones)
Spicy and vanilla undertone was quite subtle and cocoa taste was not as intense as the ones from Madagascar or Central America.

 
Crème Brûlée & Coffee Macaroon
Fine quality of macaroons, crispy macaroon shells with chewy texture on the inside while it was not overly sugary, flavor wise was ordinary but liked JPH’s macaroon’s more than Paul Lafayet’s for its slightly less sweet flavor and meltingly moist in the mouth.
Caraïbe – bitter ganache with fine cocoa from the Caribbean
Loved the robust bitter ganache which is rather refreshing compared to other chocolate truffles that promotes creaminess and richness. The rich, smooth ganache was certainly very mind-soothing for a weekday lunch break as it melts in your palate.
Gemme – Ganache macerated in smoked Chinese tea, an intense alliance with bitter chocolate
Amazed by this final note of chocolate, the smoky Chinese pu-er tea aroma was rather outstanding and everyone was in awe by the end for Jean-Paul Hevin’s innovation and creativity between China and Western fusion. The intense alliance with bitter chocolate proves how this profound chocolatier is dedicated to create
我們選了Chocolat Chaud Colombie (Pure cocoa from Colombia with roasted coffee tones – contains caffeine) 純哥倫比亞熱可可(咖啡味的)和Chocolat Chaud Anne d’Autriche (Cocoa from Venezuela with spicy and vanilla tones) 委內瑞拉熱可可(帶香料刺激和雲呢拿香 – 這些獨特的香味都沒有停留很久,一閃即過)。馬可龍杏仁脆餅我們選了Crème Brûlée (Cream and caramel biscuit with liquid caramel in chocolate ganache) 法式焦糖燉蛋味和咖啡味的:Coffee (Coffee biscuit cinnamon sprinkled and creamy coffee-flavored chocolate ganache)。馬可龍的甜度口感都蠻正宗的,味道也很好,就是中間的夾餡沒有那種煙韌抽絲的口感,但還是挺好吃的。另外朱古力也是可以選擇的,我們挑的兩顆是Caraïbe – bitter ganache with fine cocoa from the Caribbean來自加勒比可可製成的黑朱古力,濃度達65%, 和Gemme – Ganache macerated in smoked Chinese tea, an intense alliance with bitter chocolate,非常特別的有陳年普洱茶味的黑朱古力,衍生出微弱的煙燻果香。
The Gang will come back for more. Jean-Paul Hevin is like the mistress that you have to visit from time to time to sooth your mind with some delicate French culinary experience, without hurting your wallets too much.
總體來說,這家餐廳的服務挺好,即使繁忙的時候也能勉強維繫法式標準,另外食物的味道讓我們驚訝,是絕對可以再次光顧的餐廳。
Gobay Food Knowledge Corner:
法國菜單的用詞:
“Tomato Concassée”是法國菜專用語,指將帶皮的番茄連果肉連籽切得很碎很均勻。Tomato Concassée a French cuisine specific term, means tomatoes that have been peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped, often used as garnish.
”Velouté”是特指濃湯,而清湯則在法國餐廳里以”Consomé”表示。
Velouté is the French term for a soup traditionally thickened with egg yolks, butter and cream, though it is now used loosely to refer to soups that are thickened exclusively with butter and/or cream.
“Fruits de Mer”字面的意思是海裡的果實,也就是海神賜給人類豐盛的海產。
French for seafood platter as it is a seafood dish of raw and cooked shellfish served cold on a platter or usually on bed of ice.
推介美食: Classic Dark Chocolate Cake,Chocolate and Coffee Cake,Hot Chocolate,Velouté de Châtaigne (Chestnut Soup) 栗子濃湯
是次消費: 每人約$220 (午餐)

評分: 味道 5   環境 4   服務 4   衛生 5   抵食 4

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2014-11-16
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類別 : 法國菜西式甜品/糖水西式糕點

8/10 plates emptied!
[Written by Carly]

 

Raspberry Chocolate Cake
Out of all the recent new items, this has to be one of my favorites out of all cakes from Tony Wong’s creation. Reasons being that other new items that Tony Wong tried out with green tea, blackcurrant, pear and mango was not as outstanding or divine as this one. I would consider the Green Tea Opera cake and Blackcurrant Yogurt Cake not so successful. But this one stands out for its back-to-basic yet personal character kicks. The raspberry compote which cooks fruits till it turns into syrup form - sweetness was just about right with slight acidity. The manjari chocolate mousse was so good, a bit airy, light yet so smooth, the natural dark chocolate flavor melts in your mouth as soon as you try to enjoy every single bit of it. Manjari being one of the healthy dark chocolate originated from Madagascar, it gives a sharp bouquet of red fruit tones, proves this was a brilliant choice to go with raspberry cream of the cake. To end of this sweet journey, here comes my favorite part – the hazelnut crunchy as the base which was not too sweet but very rich and complemented the raspberry and chocolate cream as it gives a nutty flavor. I can tell that Tony Wong does pay attention to details and with the thin cocoa sponge as the last part of the cake, my case was settled. There is a reason why I keep coming back to this patisserie for more, because I know the owner here is dedicated to original and elegant creations. As a dessert lover, that is what is needed for me to keep coming back for more.

 
American Cheesecake
I need to confess! I had this as an after-dinner dessert and felt so guilty because the cake was too good!! Even for a person that never liked cheesecakes like me, I was amazed of this simple yet classically indulgent cake. The secret to it might be how it is slow baked so the texture came out really creamy, smooth yet not so rich that you will feel heavy. The vanilla bean cream on top was a highlight as it enriched the flavor of the cream cheese, not too sweet either. The only thing I would complain is the crust (made with graham crackers probably) which was a bit wet and not too crunchy. Tony Wong's cheesecake has always been one of my favorites and they did not disappoint me this time either. For the cheesecake lovers that like a bit of sweetness and fruity aroma, do try their blueberry cheesecake!

 
Hazelnut Chocolate Crunchy Cake
Liked this more than the Green Tea Opera or chocolate based Gold Medal. As this was down to earth, rich in hazelnut and dark chocolate flavor, comparing this with Petite Amanda's crunchy cake and would say I am at par with what is offered at Tony Wong.

 
Blueberry Yogurt Cake
Unexpectedly the blueberry filling in the middle of the shell had this strong acidity which was too strong for a yogurt cake. The cake looked amazing with the light purple shell wrapping the creamy sour yogurt cheese mousse and white chocolate deco on top to make the whole presentation appealing.

 
Green Tea Opera Cake
I was a bit disappointed at this green tea opera by Tony Wong. The green tea mousse in the middle was not smooth enough yet the matcha aroma and taste was indeed refreshing for an opera cake. Loved how the cake is decorated beautifully and delicately as you can clearly see the lines and patterns on top of the cake.

 
Blueberry Cheesecake
By far the best cheesecake I've ever had in Hong Kong - Blueberry Cheesecake by Tony Wong. I was never a cheesecake fan but then the cheesecake was really smooth, light and creamy. Blueberry sauce was made from fresh blueberries! The slight sweetness and fluffy cream cheese balances the whole experience of putting spoons of cheesecake in your mouth. *mmmmm*

 
Gold Medal
Another new product from Tony Wong - the Gold Medal - I didn't like this as much as I liked their regular choco opera cake, undoubtedly the cake looked dashing, the powdery chocolate mousse on top where made from both dark and milk chocolate, with a hint of delightful hazelnut crunch in the base. I would have thought that they can add more crunch to the base which will bring the texture to another level of dimensions.

 
Peach Short Cake
I was always the ultimate fan of Tony Wong's cakes so I was so thrilled to know that they have opened a new shop in Sha Tin! Peach short cake being their new item for summer, better try it sooner or later since peach season is going to end soon. The airy cream on top went well with the light sponge cake that made the dome shape. Had a delightful scoop of peach cubes and peach flavored jelly cubes as the filling and ended off this light note of dessert.
 
推介美食: Blueberry Cheesecake,Raspberry Chocolate Cake,American Cheesecake
是次消費: 每人約$50 (其他)

評分: 味道 5   環境 4   服務 4   衛生 4   抵食 5

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2014-08-06
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類別 : 法國菜西餐廳咖啡店三文治西式糕點 飲o野傾計

Recommended dishes: Passion Fruit Mont Blanc, Milles Feuilles, Salmon & Herbs Quiche
8/10 plates emptied!

 
[Written by Carly]
All I can say about this place is – one word: mind-soothing. And why is that? My first time visiting this corner shop of Passion was after a day of tiring work, crashed system, and non-stop blabbering client meetings. Dragging a worn-down body on the road of Wanchai, skimming through the streets, and aiming to grab a quick bite before dance class, turned around the corner and this little bright shimmering store stood in front of me, I ended up not wanting to leave this blissful place as the evening vibe with a sweet kick of desserts completed my day.

 
Ate salad first so as to feel less guilty about the desserts later on. Daily specials include 8 different options for you to choose for your green portions. Mandarin Beetroot Salad, California Shell Salad, Apple Celery Salad, Moroccan Couscous Salad, Tomatoes and Mozzarella, Fruity Turkey Salad, Bounty of Eden. I will have to say my all-time-favorites are California Shell Salad, Apple Celery Salad, and Fruity Turkey Salad.

 
California Shell Salad
The salad dressing of California Shell Salad is creamy and rich in flavor which seemingly has a base of thousand island dressing to it – the shell pasta are filled with the rich dressing mixed with the herb scent.

 
Apply Celery Salad
A lighter choice with chunky fresh red and green apples and streaks of celery, loved the natural taste to it without too much dressing or cream sauce.
Fruity Turkey Salad
Liked how the turkey salad is mixed with dried cranberries, walnuts, and healthier choice of meat – turkey. Turkey contains less fat than other meats like chicken, beef or poultry. Some would think that these salads are often too oily with too much salad dressing. Well, I would say – if you are going for an extreme diet, this is the last place you want to step foot in, even the salad tastes too delicious to be healthy!
Tomatoes and Mozzarella Salad
Not bad, slightly oily on the pesto oil yet the cheese was surprisingly decent for a non-cheese fan as it didn’t have the strong scent and was chewy for its texture.
The rest of the salads were not bad. Bounty of Eden was slightly oily for all the boiled veggies, Mandarin Beetroot Salad was a bit too citrusy, and the Couscous salad a bit too much of the curry-taste spices in it and I am definitely not a fan of chicken peas *ha*
Quiches. In other context, it is basically baked egg custard with various combinations of meat, seafood, or veggies in open-faced crust. A classic French cuisine served in savory hot or cold dish, Passion nailed this dish with a delightful note. You definitely do not find them all around in Hong Kong!

 
Mushroom & Parmesan Quiche
Mini shiitake mushrooms were used instead of the regular white button mushrooms, guess this was to prevent the quiche from turning soggy as white mushrooms will certainly do so more than shiitake. The crust was most fluffy and flaky out of all quiches.

 
Quiche Lorraine
One of the classic ones as it includes bits of bacon, onions, and custard in it. This was my favourite savory quiche of the day. Not just that it is down to earth with its modest flavor, the custard is smooth and light as a snack on the side as a meal, bits of onions were critical to balance out the classic quiche.

 
Salmon & Herbs Quiche
Compared to other quiches, the Salmon one was not bad as well. The Salmon flavor stood out more than bacon and really liked the savory combination of fish and eggs. The herbs highlighted this dish to make it purely enjoyable.
Okay. Finally, dessert time that I am sure all of you must be longing for!

 
Milles Feuilles
I am totally in love with Passion’s own modification to Milles Feuilles, another French pastry worth trying. The pastry is flaky with a baked crunch to it. The combination of vanilla cream and dulce de leche (cooked in milk, sugar, and toffee) cream complements each other. Vanilla cream not too sweet while the toffee one hits you as a side kick for its milky sweet taste. Classic napoleon pastry well-done!

 
Passion Fruit Mont Blanc
Summer special – try this before it is gone. As a chestnut fan, I was absolutely satisfied with the creaminess and smooth texture of the chestnut mousse even better than my regular cake place – Harlan in Tsim Sha Tsui. I initially hesitated whether passion fruit is going to go well with chestnut yet I danced a little when I tried this (okay, not literally ha*) It also surprised me a little with milk chocolate filling at the bottom, really liked how Gerard chose different fruit and sweets for its pastry – just cannot settle for the regular Mont Blanc anymore.

 
La Boule Chocolat|Pistache
Chocolate bomb! Was not as sweet as I imagined – for a dark chocolate fan, this is the dessert to go for.
Loved how there is plain cream in the filling so that it doesn’t get overly sweet and the extremely crunchy bottom part which is dipped in rich dark chocolate sauce was fab.

 
Tarte au Citron
Something was missing in this tart – I was looking for more acidity and smoothness from the lemon custard. This was not bad but definitely not the best in town. I’ve always thought that by trying one place’s lemon tart, you will be able to tell whether the chefs are good at handling custard cooking (basic technique for desserts!)

 
Trilogy – Raspberry Ganache
Liked the raspberry and dark chocolate ganache (chocolate and cream cooked into a sauce/glaze/icing, in this case is used as a filling), the slight acidity balanced out the sweetness. The only thing to complain is about the pastry crust which could be crunchier.
On a side note, I do not know why the SCONES are gone now but I had them once and it was absolutely TERRIFIC – loved the buttery, moist regular scones they offer but will have to catch them with luck!
Passion by Gerard Dubois has officially become my hideout place for lunch or evening chillout, whenever you are up for “healthy” salad and mouth-drooling desserts, you know where to go.
推介美食: Mille Feuille,Quiche Lorraine,Passion Fruit Mont Blanc,Salmon & Herbs Quiche,La Boule Chocolat|Pistache
是次消費: 每人約$100 (午餐)

評分: 味道 5   環境 4   服務 4   衛生 4   抵食 5

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2015-07-02
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類別 : 多國菜

 
7.5/10 plates emptied!
[Written by Gobay in Chinese, Carly in English]
MAMA SAN是巴厘島著名餐廳老闆兼大廚Will Meyrick精心締造的主打印尼菜、巴東菜但隱含著整個東南亞特色(俗稱泛亞)的美食精品餐廳。Will是國際聞名的街頭美食大廚,周遊亞洲各國的他曾無數次收到不同地方女性交給他的傳統食譜從而獲得很多地道的烹飪知識和文化。

 
MAMA SAN名字的來源也代表著東南亞各地長久以來經歷的新舊飲食理念碰撞——正如亞洲男權唯尊的俱樂部裡總有一個媽媽桑總管一切一樣。也許也同時反映了亞洲女性地位不高,卻深遠地影響了當地飲食潮流走向的事實。
MAMA SAN came all the way from Bali, led by the very charismatic chef, Will Meyrick, who has extensive culinary experience from Sydney to London and all across South East Asia; Carly not only felt the passion and joy dining at MAMA SAN, but also quickly realized that it requires creativity, passion and drive for excellence. Carly found Chef Meyrick exceptionally charismatic as she read through his journals on his trips around Bali, Vietnam, Burma, and Madura – his interest in street food showcased how the chef is down-to-earth, happily adventurous who appreciates local culture and habitats, aiming to discover and preserve exotic ways of cooking. Chef Meyrick hopes to capture your hearts by offering the living, breathing and hearty city culture on the table, with a splash and dash of authenticity wrapped in glamor.

 
Upbeat modern decor, fancy in a fun way, mixed with high stables and stools by the window side will be a perfect spot for drinks, long wooden tables great for gatherings and big group chillouts, sofa corners are best spots for close friends.

 

 
除了理念以外,Will對東南亞各地的特色配方和香料的研究和熱愛,鉅細無遺地反映在他的食物裡,在之後介紹的食物裡,你們會感受到一個真正熱愛烹飪和調味的廚師的那份暖人心意,而這份心意更促使了我們的Carly去細讀了他的遊記——這是一個多麼浪漫的『相識相知』的過程!

 
餐廳裝潢依然是如巴厘島總店一樣的工業倉庫的懷舊風格,墻上最矚目的還是那位風情萬種的上海女性,畫中的她仍是一副羞澀不看顧客的姿態。老實說,她應該不是純華人女性,五官像南亞裔混血兒......好了不說題外話,進入本篇的食物主題——菜單大部分源自Chef Will,但主理香港MAMA SAN的聞說是追隨他近10年盡得真傳的Chef Gede,我們一起來看看他是怎樣揉合東南亞菜和香港人口味的:

                                                  《Lunch Set》
慢煮五花腩,襯印度果阿咖哩鯛魚,配青木瓜沙律

慢煮五花腩,襯印度果阿咖哩鯛魚,配青木瓜沙律

 
【Slow cooked pork belly with green papaya som tum and Southern Goan snapper curry with okra fenugreek curry leaves, yoghurt and coconut milk | 慢煮五花腩,襯印度果阿咖哩鯛魚,配青木瓜沙律 | HKD168】

Spot on pork belly! Slow cooked till the fat turned succulent juicy, melts in your mouth, with the pork belly dissolving on your palate, crispy on the edges, and mildly sweet seasoned with a caramel glazed skin, we can have one whole plate of this, the pork belly was the REASON why the Gang will come back to MAMA SAN. Fenugreek leaves, wonderful Indian plant commonly used amongst Andhra Brahmin households; goes perfectly well with a simple yellow curry base.
慢煮五花腩

慢煮五花腩

 
Crucial to Indian culture, remember how in the movie of《Three Idiots》Rajol’s mom was complaining about the prices of Fenugreek leaves been climbing up, then you will realize how these herbs are as vital as cilantro or shallots in Chinese food culture. The mild heat spreads to the tips of your tongue with warmth lingering afterwards, and interestingly it’s good for digestion too! Green papaya was bit too raw but some liked it for its citrusy sauce for starters.

 
對於好味道的豬腩肉相信大家心裡都有杆稱,推薦本菜給具備「仲有最愛的豬腩肉」情懷的朋友。這道菜雖名為「慢煮」但它成功地只把油脂部分變軟腍,瘦肉的部分竟然是脆韌的,麥芽糖般的微甜夾雜著肉鮮和油脂的甘香散開在口中,這時再加一啖泰國香米飯,實為人生一樂也!慢煮,源自法文Sous Vide,通常指把食物醬料封入真空袋在最適宜該材料的低溫下長時間烹煮,使得食物嫩滑軟腍之餘,還充分吸收醬汁的美味,食材的原味和纖維也不會受到破壞。
印度果阿咖哩鯛魚

印度果阿咖哩鯛魚

 
這裡的豬腩肉慢煮後拿去煎封四面,大大的增加了口感。青木瓜沙律無甚特別但勝在不太辣,怕辣的食友都可以淺嘗。至於特別的印度果阿咖喱,香港能吃到果阿菜的地方非常少,這也是我們的第一次。果阿在印度南部,曾經有400多年葡萄牙殖民地歷史,它的菜餚揉合了印度菜和葡國菜的特色,而魚肉則幾乎是果阿菜裡靈魂般的存在。
印度果阿咖哩鯛魚

印度果阿咖哩鯛魚

 
它沒印度咖喱那麼油膩,也沒有葡國咖喱那麼「椰奶濃」,而且辣度很適中,很好的味道。裡面加了秋葵和南印常用的香料Fenugreek leaf即Methi Leaf——香細葉,有很濃的苦味,必須混合其他多種印度香料一起熬煮才能提煉出獨特的果仁香。秋葵是印度咖喱文化非常重要的一環,看過電影《Three Idiots》的食友想必還記得Rajol的母親抱怨秋葵又加價了。正如開篇所說,簡單的一份午市套餐飽含了大廚的心意:西方的慢煮、泰國的青木瓜沙律、南印度的咖喱——而且迎合了港人口味:不太辣,不太油,簡直是時尚的味道。

辣炒蒜香雞肉粒,配太陽蛋香米飯和清新蘿蔔雞湯

辣炒蒜香雞肉粒,配太陽蛋香米飯和清新蘿蔔雞湯

 
【Stir fry chicken with chilli garlic long bean baby corn holy basil, jasmine rice runny fried egg and light daikon chicken broth | 辣炒蒜香雞肉粒,配太陽蛋香米飯和清新蘿蔔雞湯 | HKD138】

The chicken bits were chopped into bits and stir fried with some very pleasant holy basil, these widely spread basils are proven to be stress relievers, Carly was amazed of how caring MAMA SAN’s menu was to one’s health and mood. The basil leaves tasted rather earthy yet mild in its way, diners who do not fancy heavy exotic spices can certainly opt for this relatively simple and light meal. The fried egg was not so runny, a bit overcooked, jasmine rice was not too pronounced in the pandan-like nutty flavor. This would have been good if only the daikon chicken broth was not so salty.
雞肉切成碎粒夾著新鮮嘎拋(或叫甲拋即Holy Basil),是典型的泰國菜。嘎拋是比泰式羅勒辣和香的泰國常用香草。泰國嘎拋和前道菜提及的南印香細葉都是對身體很有好處的香辛料。嘎拋在印度也很出名,叫Tulsi,食用或製成茶包飲用可以減壓和抗老化;香細葉Methi則有降膽固醇、降血糖血脂和增強免疫力等功效。雖然太陽蛋不太「糖心」,但我們還是覺得雞肉碎拌香米飯挺美味。至於蘿蔔雞湯就太鹹,原本看到菜單上用「Daikon」即「大根」,日本叫法,湯就會好似日本菜一樣清淡為主,誰知剛好相反!不過,主角夠好,配角我們可以省略不計。

柬埔寨式鴨肉番薯咖喱

柬埔寨式鴨肉番薯咖喱

 
【Crispy salmon with green mango and sweet fish sauce, Cambodian Duck curry with sweet potatoes shallots peanuts | 青芒魚露脆煎三文魚,配柬埔寨式鴨肉番薯咖喱 | HKD138】

Never thought sweet potatoes would go well with the yellow/red curry combo! Carly found this curry to be sweeter as the mushy sweet potatoes, shallots and peanuts gave a more nutty touch rather than coconut based flavor to it. Highlight goes to the velvety, tender, flavorsome salmon chunks from the salad, well-seasoned with fish sauce, cooked just on the spot, pink to its core.
青木瓜沙律

青木瓜沙律

 
薯仔是咖喱的「天下無雙生命伴侶」我們明白,但番薯卻是認真地少見,而且味道還那麼搭!前面的套餐有果阿咖喱,這裡再來柬埔寨咖喱,今次令我們大開眼界、口界!柬埔寨最著名的就是Khmer紅咖喱——高棉紅咖喱。鴨肉、鮮椰汁和Kroeung咖喱醬混合製成,沒有泰國咖喱那麼辣,薑味比較重。鴨肉不會很乾身,花生碎增加了口感之餘還加了些果仁香,而番薯的甜和粉將各種元素很勻稱地綜合在一起,配合尖仔米飯一起食實在不俗!三文魚也是一大亮點:切開三文魚你會發現裡面還有紅色沒有全熟的魚肉!半生熟的炙三文魚肉加上清爽的青芒魚露,非常美味!

甜菜根沙律,配菜花茄子青咖喱

甜菜根沙律,配菜花茄子青咖喱

 
【Beetroot salad with paneer and chat masala, cauliflower Sambar curry with dahl eggplant tamarind and fresh Coriander | 甜菜根沙律,配菜花茄子青咖喱 | HKD118】

Vegetarian choice! Beetroot salad was rather appetizing and healthy chunks , the green curry was relatively spicy compared to other curry combos.
菜花茄子青咖喱

菜花茄子青咖喱

 
Take notice of how each lunch item is cooked in a different sauce base, showcasing how diverse and dynamic Southeast Asian herbs and spices can be.
甜菜根沙律

甜菜根沙律

 
這個是為素食人士準備的:營養方面有甜菜根,菜花,茄子等,這個搭配幾乎可以說是全方位兼顧到人體所需。咖喱比前文提及的都要辣上一點,但幼玉米的甜嫩加上泰式羅勒的香味又中和了部分的辣,整道菜平衡得很好。

瓦鍋料理:椰皇水黑椒紅燒鯛魚

瓦鍋料理:椰皇水黑椒紅燒鯛魚

 
【Claypot caramelized snapper with young coconut water black pepper, green mango and thai basil |瓦鍋料理:椰皇水黑椒紅燒鯛魚| HKD238】

Ambrosial scent was bursting with flavors as it was served in that hot claypot! Snapper meat was firm and some caramelized ones had relatively hard edges, nonetheless, crunchy in general. Shredded green mango adding a sweet touch, they went a bit heavy on the basil and black pepper, undoubtedly, will need a bowl of rice to go with the thick sauce.
瓦鍋料理:椰皇水黑椒紅燒鯛魚

瓦鍋料理:椰皇水黑椒紅燒鯛魚

 
上檯伊始,這道瓦鍋菜就散發出濃郁誘人的香味!魚肉鮮實,某些邊位還微脆,外脆內嫩的口感加上外層微甜的醃汁,青芒絲加入了爽的口感外帶甜酸果香,儘管黑椒和泰式羅勒的味道有些濃重,但這絕對是送飯一流之選。有人問那麼濃的醬汁,清淡的椰皇水就等於白放了。椰皇水味道比普通椰青汁更濃,最重要的是它潤肺清熱,可以平衡青芒和黑椒所帶來的燥——幾乎每道菜我們都能接收到大廚對食客的厚重心意,又是一刻感動的瞬間。

【Stir fry pork neck with Bamboo ginger green peppercorns and holy basil | 竹筍青胡椒炒豬頸肉 | HKD198】
Ginger green peppercorns were refreshingly spicy compared to black peppercorns that are often used in western dishes. The pork neck was not overcooked but some did taste coarse on the palate, the abundant portions of holy basil will certainly overwhelm you if you aren't a fan of it.
這味豬頸肉對比其他幾款菜式沒什麼特別之處,儘管運用了比黑胡椒辣度低然而新鮮清香的青胡椒,但豬頸肉稍嫌鈍糙的口感加上與之不是很搭配的過量的Holy basil,整個菜頓時被我們拋「豬」「嘴」後。

良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉

良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉

 
【Stir fry chicken with chilli jam, long bean baby corn, galangal chilli and Thai basil | 良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉 | HKD178】

Chili jam was indeed pretty heaty and the chicken was softer and more tender compared to the stir fry pork neck we had. Galangal is a rhizome of plants in the ginger family, for culinary and medical uses originated from Indonesia which makes this another healthy dish served at MAMA SAN.
良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉

良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉

 
這道菜味道挺霸道的,也比之前的咖哩要辣,因為有辣椒醬、辣椒和良薑三種味覺嗅覺都具一定辛辣氣息的材料。雞肉比之前說的豬頸肉要柔軟多汁,如果大家有嚐過我們之前寫過的灣仔生記海鮮舫的炒雞球,這個的口感和火候仍是稍遜一籌,儘管味道不錯。良薑又稱高良薑,原產自印尼,在廣東其實非常常見,大家經常吃的鹵水食品,良薑就是主角之一,另外超級市場賣的五香粉的其中一種原料就是良薑粉。它有很霸道的辛辣氣味,可以溫脾祛寒、行氣止痛——反正普通生薑能做的它都能,就是比較橘紅色,味道比較刺激。寫到這裡,Gobay由衷地對Chef Will和Chef Gede有了敬意,開始覺得製作出這樣的菜單的Chef Will簡直是一個「Will長今」——東南亞香辛藥膳菜式的傑出代表,但別忘了,他是一個蘇格蘭人,卻將亞洲香料用得出神入化!

巴東式炸辣牛肋排

巴東式炸辣牛肋排

 
【Dendeng Balado caramelized short rib beef with pounded chilli, kaffir lime & lemon basil | 巴東式炸辣牛肋排 | HKD198】

Dendeng refers to thinly sliced dried meat, more condensed in meaty taste, preserved through mixture of sugar and spice, skillfully evalates the intense flavors of the juicy, delectable short rib beef. As a die-hard fan of Ho Lee Fook, Carly had to admit that this was so darn good, consider this as par with Chef Jowett's renowned wagyu short ribs. Kaffir lime added extra pinch of acidity and fragrance o tone down the overall saltiness and sweetness, this dish was one to return for, Carly's stomach is growling thinking about those soft, tender beef ribs!
巴東式炸辣牛肋排

巴東式炸辣牛肋排

 
這道小牛肋排應該是這麼多的菜裡最讓人覺得驚艷的。印尼菜裡蘇門答臘的巴東菜(Padang Food)屬於佼佼者(另外有爪哇菜、錫江菜和棉蘭菜等等),巴東菜名菜「Dendeng Balado」是一種常見的街頭小吃:炸辣牛肉。「Dendeng」是類似我們所知的肉乾的製作方法,而「Dendeng Balado」其實就是把牛肉放到辣椒油裡炸到半透半乾,作下酒菜一絕!我們一般吃小牛肋排都是軟身的,在濃郁的醬汁裡將它燜煮到極致,然後肉骨分離地上檯,感受它的肉筋相互融在口中的快感。但這道小牛肋排上檯非常乾身,先用多種香料和糖醬醃製過,Gobay專門請教了他們所用的香料,他們特別提及了cardamon即小荳蔻,還拿了一碟給我們看,是品質好的青色荳蔻,不是較差的白荳蔻。小荳蔻有消食的作用,最適宜和肉類一起烹煮,味道峻烈芬芳。醃入味後再經高溫油鍋收乾部分水分,所以吃起來外層酥脆內裡肉質滑嫩,突出的甜香帶著絲絲辣意,加上泰國青檸(kaffir lime)和檸檬羅勒的酸和清新,整道菜餚的層次多得難以形容。連作為口利福瘋狂擁躉的Carly都做了一次「二五仔」,覺得這是可以和口利福的和牛小肋排媲美的一道佳餚!

印度香茶

印度香茶

 
【Chai Tea | 印度香茶 | Additional HKD25】

Mama San's Chai Tea was crowd-pleasingly impressive as the natural tea aroma was very mind-soothing and exquisite in the subtle herbs fragrance, not very strong on the nose but then with a drop of syrup, the sensational tea is well-balanced and refreshing to pair with southeast cuisine. The staff said that they spent up to a day to brew these herbs tea, not going to lie but this was sooooo good. Carly has always been a huge fan of Chai tea, this unique blend from MAMA SAN satisfied all her cravings!
印度香茶

印度香茶

 
這杯印度香茶最了不起的是它不但保留那讓人心神怡靜的自然茶香,配搭上其他淡淡而不嗆的香料,喝下後便會覺得這是一個非常舒服的一天。店員們說他們會花上一整天的時間烹煮這杯香茶,難怪那麼的愛不釋手!
                                                  《Desserts》
Desserts are all additional HKD30 during lunch time, it’s so worth it! Don’t miss out on these!
午餐時間只要加HKD30就可以擁有一款甜品,吉碟幫品嚐過覺得絕對不容錯過!
「鄉村版士力架」——花生醬奶油芭菲配朱古力花生和鹹奶油糖碎

「鄉村版士力架」——花生醬奶油芭菲配朱古力花生和鹹奶油糖碎

 
【“Kampung snicker” peanut butter parfait with butterscotch & chocolate coated peanuts |「鄉村版士力架」——花生醬奶油芭菲配朱古力花生和鹹奶油糖碎】
Kampung, defined as village in Malaysia. Snickers – globally spread nougat topped with caramel and peanut, enrobed in milk chocolate kind of chocolate bar. Carly loved this chilled peanut butter parfait, ultra-smooth creamy, the nutty flavors were mind blobbing as the rich buttery aroma was not cloying sweet and rather scrumptious!
「Kampung」在馬拉語中是鄉村的意思,士力架眾所周知是內含烤花生和焦糖的牛奶朱古力棒。芭菲,可以理解為裝在高腳杯裡的新地雪糕類的物體——這裡主要是說它集合了花生醬和奶油經過冰凍後形成的凍糕,我們的甜品專家Carly非常喜愛這道甜品,因其口感相當幼滑,含豐富的果仁香味,而且不會太甜膩,是一道會帶給你驚喜的甜品。

香茅奶凍,青瓜青檸啫哩配檸檬羅勒雪芭

香茅奶凍,青瓜青檸啫哩配檸檬羅勒雪芭

 
【Lemongrass panna cotta with cucumber lime jelly served with lemon basil sorbet | 香茅奶凍,青瓜青檸啫哩配檸檬羅勒雪芭】

Best dessert in the house! Summery, refreshing, and indulging as the top layer of icy citrusy lime jelly went so perfectly well with the panna cotta, bursting in energizing lemongrass scent, the bouncy jelly and creamy panna cotta was the best combo ever. Better yet, the lime sorbet was considerably sour and pungent but very decent and icy in a nice way.
香茅奶凍,青瓜青檸啫哩配檸檬羅勒雪芭

香茅奶凍,青瓜青檸啫哩配檸檬羅勒雪芭

 
這是一道讓Gobay都讚嘆不已的意式奶凍雪芭。它的頂部是檸檬羅勒雪芭,非常清新的酸甜,一勺子下去,就吃到下一層的青瓜青檸啫喱,再深一點就舀到嫩滑的香茅奶凍,口感和味道三重奏,而且一大頓午餐後吃一口這個,酸酸甜甜凍凍的甜品,感覺又給你力量再大吃一頓!

芒果椰汁紫米露

芒果椰汁紫米露

 
【Black Sticky rice with mango and coconut milk | 芒果椰汁紫米露】

See how did MAMA SAN do a traditional dessert dish? Sticky rice with mango and condensed coconut milk, Carly used to cook purple glutinous rice pudding very often when she studied abroad, just coz it was easy and very filling, healthy too? (just don't add too much crystalized sugar or coconut milk tongue ) but what does it do if there weren’t enough condensed milk? Coconut milk, with the right consistency and tad sweetened, complemented with the slightly chewy and soft black sticky rice. Mangoes, freshly sliced, not something you want to miss in a black sticky rice dessert.
芒果椰汁紫米露

芒果椰汁紫米露

 
Carly在海外求學期間就經常煮少糖少椰奶的紫米露,又易滿足口腹之欲又健康。她所期待的傳統甜品MAMA SAN毫不意外地做得十分出色:紫米露柔軟中又帶點堅韌——很像我們人類的個性吧——芒果很新鮮很甜,再加上濃度放得恰到好處的椰奶,「椰」!

 
MAMA SAN deserves all the recognition for modifying Asian street food into nicely presented buoyant dining experience, like a shining gem situated in the hidden corner of famed Lan Kwai Fong, heart of Central. Noteworthy that the staff was very accommodating even when we were all creating a huge mess at the scene as it was Lorling’s birthday when we visited, as you can picture we were loud, running around, asking.
12 hungry customers, left with happy stuffed tummies. Aside from Chef Jason Atherton, think Carly has spotted another favorite, Chef Will Meyrick, will you amaze us more?

 
一句道破,MAMA SAN絕對是值得一般食客甚至饕餮認真對待的餐廳。它就像是一份隱世瑰寶沉寂在中環等待我們去發掘。Chef Will對香辛料的了解和運用,對東南亞各地食物和文化的用心融合,除了得益他的街頭和市場遊走經歷,還有一眾不吝於與他分享傳統食譜的「Mama San」,難怪他要向她們致敬。
良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉

良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉

 
餐廳的服務也是非常不錯,當日是為Lorling慶祝生日,我們一共12人的排場還不斷遊走於拍照、食飯、聊天和玩耍之間,他們也是一直耐心而快樂地在旁幫忙和解答我們的問題,使得我們的用餐經歷非常愉快。我們期待Chef Will繼續擴張他的餐飲帝國,期待他帶來更多健康好味的驚喜!
題外話/補充資料:
* Lunch sets are must-try!

*必食午市套餐!
推介美食: 凍印度拉茶,Iced Chai Tea,慢煮五花腩,醬炸辣牛小排,香茅青檸奶凍,Lemongrass panna cotta,鄉土式花生醬芭菲,芒果椰汁紫米露
是次消費: 每人約$200 (午餐)

評分: 味道 5   環境 4   服務 4   衛生 4   抵食 4

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